Thursday, March 18, 2010:
I was hoping to return from Vietnam with a new sense of the country, its people and its history. The mission accomplished is a bitter-sweet one. You see, despite the hope for this beautiful country there are scars from the Vietnam War that will simply never heal. For many American soldiers the wounds are too deep to ever open again.
Some visit Vietnam to close a chapter in their lives. Others closed it long ago and threw away the key. For the American people, the name Vietnam conjures up mental images of bloodshed that are unavoidable.
For the Vietnamese the effects linger too. Lush jungles lay barren from the permanent effects of Agent Orange. The crippled and deformed societal outcasts that the Vietnamese say are a result of Agent Orange are labeled and placed in a government run program where they spend their days making crafts to sell to visitors like me.
PIX: Anietra's Photos Of Vietnam | WEB EXTRA: Anietra Hamper's Bio
There are opinions, anger and feelings about the war on both sides that will never change. However, I spoke to may Vietnamese people about this after they asked where I was from and learned I was an American citizen. It became clear to me after many of these conversations that the Vietnamese grapple as we do to find some kind of peace out of a horrible time in history for both countries.
One Vietnamese man who spoke to my mom and said "we were at war" and ended his conversation by saying "we are friends now."
I had a remarkable first-hand journey to Vietnam and I got to experience the country from the South in Saigon, through the Central region in Hoi An, North through the capital of Hanoi and onto the far reaching tribal camps that border China. I have new images and information to help the mental paradigm shift I was hoping to make from this exploration.
Using my camera as a tool to capture the moments of Vietnamese life frame by frame it took my experience of the country to a whole new level. The instruction I received on how to use my camera to capture life beyond a snapshot magnified my ability to see past what happened in Vietnam during the war and into its beauty and future.
The people are very kind and welcoming. They are resourceful people who waste nothing. And, they very much want outsiders to see for themselves how lovely a place it is.
Can we set aside the travesty of the Vietnam War? No. Is it possible to accept that the Vietnamese people of today share many of the conflicting feelings that we do and are trying to push aside the mental stigma for positive relations? I believe so. They showed me that time and time again when I was there.
My new images of Vietnam are much like a movie transition that will take time to settle and change. I feel so fortunate for my time in Vietnam. It is an exploration that many people would be resistant or uninterested to try because of the history associated with it. I will add this to my life collection of experiences with fondness.
Saturday, March 13, 2010:
The road to amazement is sometimes a long one. More specifically it is an hour bus ride, an hour boat ride, a 3 1/2 hour bus ride, a 9 1/2 hour overnight train ride and a 2 hour bus ride (again) in non-stop order. But, the rainbow always lies at the end of the road and it certainly did today when I landed in Lao Cai.
This is just over the border of China near the northern tip of Vietnam.
With Vietnam being such a long and narrow country- exploring from South to North means a long
and committed journey as you get nowhere fast. The last 24 hours have been pretty grueling as I
traveled from Cat Ba Island to Lao Cai. Knowing I was traveling to a cooler climate I bought a
sweater from a local vendor.
It is a little, well, hideous. The shirts for women here would fit my left foot because the
women are so tiny. So I opted for the "knee length" sweater which fits just about right coming to
my waist. The sweater will probably not make the trip home and I traveling with several
photographers will make it difficult to rid any evidence of its existence.
The trip north by train was interesting. It was not the Orient Express -in fact it is the
Liviticus Express- but it did the job. The compartments which usually sleep 4 people are incredibly
tiny. Some train compartments sleep 6 people and some transportation cars only have seats.
I can't say it was a restful night's sleep but the I-Pod helped drown out the noise and the
experience was new. I was actually pretty comfortable.
Once my feet hit the ground again around 5am, I was ready for a big cup of coffee and a nice
restroom to freshen up. Apparently I was still dreaming when I set my sights on that idea because I
got nothing of the sort. The coffee arrived in something the size of a Dixie cup and the restroom
was literally a hole in the floor.
My experienced traveling comrades are no longer fazed by this kind of thing. I, on the other
hand, spent as much time trying to figure out what to do with what I was looking at as I did using
it.
Once back on the road there were rolling mountains that just seemed to go on forever in the
distance. The ascent up a mountain, as we headed to a market was steep. Much like clearing fog from
glasses I began to see something incredible unfold. The Hmong people live in these mountains.
There are clusters of various tribes. Since there is no land for rice fields the resourceful
Hmong build terraces to farm along the sides of these rolling cliffs. As I look out over the
countryside from high above it looks like intricate architecture. The locals call these terraces
'the steps to heaven' and if I look at them long enough I am convinced in time I would get there.
At the top of this mountain, we visited the Can Cau market which was buzzing. There were
women in very brightly colored and elaborate dresses and children chewing bamboo and playing.
These are very kind, almost shy people. They were selling hand-stitched bags and lots of
embroidery. Just over a hill were dozens of cows, water buffalo, pigs and chickens being sold by
the locals.
I was in total amazement. The view was breathtaking. I couldn't believe that sheltered in the
greenery of the mountainside would be such a burst of color. It was like an impressionist painting.
Far away you see a beautiful arrangement-but close up you see the intricate detail from which it is
created.
My tired eyes, my want for coffee, the long hours of travel didn't matter anymore. What was
before me was stunning.
Later in the day, another rainbow unfolded when I took a motorbike ride through the
countryside near town. Zooming on dirt roads opened my eyes to another slice of life here. I got to
see many of the residential areas where local were raising chickens and other livestock and I
shared the dirt road with little kids leading the water buffalo to the field.
As dusk arrived, men and women poured out of the hills with loads of wood and farming equipment
loaded on their backs. Some of these workers were very old women.
I am staying the night in an area of the region called Bac Ha where I will grab my camera and
head for another local market tomorrow.
Thursday, March 11, 2010:
There are moments when Mother Nature reminds us of our mortality-today was filled with them. I
departed by boat from Ha Long Bay in the Gulf of Tonkin and sailed to an island called Cat Ba in
the very northern region of Vietnam. Along the way were huge limestone structures piercing the sky
that were simply majestic.
The area is sprinkled with 2000 limestone monoliths of varying shapes and sizes -only 4 of
which are inhabited. Many years ago earthquakes separated the earth and the sea and left a paradise
behind. As I sailed along the bay I watched the eagles soaring almost rhythmically way above the
small islands then down to the water in search of fish.
In the middle of nowhere along the pass were very tiny fishing villages. Some of these were
made up of 10 houses literally sitting on the water. The small structures sit on top of large cages
that catch fish and shrimp that the people can sell. During typhoons these homes are strapped
together, yet still floating in the bay.
During the sail -the locals served up a feast of the freshest seafood one can imagine. I
sampled local shrimp, crab, calamari, steamed fish, seafood spring rolls, fresh veggies and crisp
pineapple. I supposed they wanted us to feel at home so they also brought out a large plate of
French fries.
It was all fantastic and I can definitely taste a difference with seafood that is pulled off the
boat just hours before it is eaten.
I visited a cave on the way that was like a rolling landscape inside. The formations of
stalagmites were the size of some homes. Giant crevices carved out of limestone are a
thrill-seekers paradise! I was awestruck at the formations and the glimpses of daylight that flowed
several stories in from the rock ceiling to the hollow holes below me.
In Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba Island there is no land for rice so the locals relay on the fishing
industry. They are beginning to rely more and more on the tourism industry. This is unfortunate as
I see the beginning of tourist development here.
The lush green land and vegetation will start to disappear and the magic of these tucked-away
islands will give way to high-rises and out-of-towners.
I see this as well in other areas of Vietnam that rely on tourism for a big chuck of their
economy. I caught a glimpse of traditional Vietnam today during a stop at a rice field. The workers
seed and weed by hand and the fields seem to go on forever. As I tried to get a close glimpse of
one of the workers I wiped out with camera in hand on one of the tiny, narrow and muddy paths. All
I cared about was protecting my camera-which I did except for some mud on the casing and my
leg.
It was interesting to see however, a large factory of some sort bumped up against the fields.
You see, from the ground with one arm in the rice an mud I had a whole new vantage point.
I am thankful to be here at a time when I can see this area rich with its natural habitat.
Cat Ba Island is just stunning. I have pictures of the magnificent limestone islands and sunset
over some fishing boats. As I watched the sun set below the collection of breathtaking monoliths I
was further reminded how small I am in a world so vast with so many wonders yet to explore.
Tomorrow I catch a bus to catch a train to head to a remote area just bordering China where I
will see various tribes.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010:
The minute you step into the Vietnam capital of Hanoi you know it. Hanoi is like a big rice bowl
filled with 6-million people, a rich history that transcends Communism to modern day rule,
marketplaces with things I've never seen and chance meetings with people who have literally changed
the world-- or at least the way people view it.
I thought things were bustling in South Vietnam but apparently that was just a warm up. The
chaotic scene on the narrow streets here is played out by buzzing motorbikes and people as far as
the eye can see. There is so much sensory input; it is like sucking in water and trying to catch a
breath.
Horns honking, vendors crowding my personal space trying to sell me more coconut candy and
salted peanuts, signs I can't read closing in like a whirlwind and the occasional downwind gust of
sewer smell clogging my nose. Hanoi is very different than Central and South Vietnam.
This year Hanoi will turn 1000 years old. There are already flowers in the shape of 1000
floating in the water of Hoan Kiem Lake marking the celebration. This lake sits where the Red River
once ran through the city. The park surrounding it is very popular for young brides to take
pictures. Today, there were quite a few.
You need not go far to see that the people here still regard Ho Chi Minh as the father of
this country. I went to the mausoleum where his body lay in rest in full view surrounded by armed
guards. No photographs were allowed and the guards made us walk two by two with our arms down to
our sides.
The sprawling grounds in the area around the mausoleum were vast. It is evident this is a sacred
place for the people of Vietnam.
I hope to remember Hanoi by the signs of its rich history-- things like the traditional water
puppet show that I experienced. These shows were used as a form of entertainment when there was no
television or radio. I hope to remember Hanoi by its culture that still surrounds the heart of the
city in rice fields where pheasants work.
Unfortunately, I will likely also remember Hanoi for the marketplace where I saw things I could
never possibly erase from my memory.
Yes, there were merchants at the market making fresh flower arrangements and selling things
like fresh fruits and vegetables and fish. But only a short distance in I see they sell just about
anything and everything that there is to eat. I spent a few minutes photographing a butcher who was
very busy with his products for the day.
There were things there I didn't even have a name for. There were also domesticated animals at
market that were not being sold as pets. It is a common practice here but something a little
difficult for a Westerner to comprehend, much less stomach.
Also at market I stumbled on Weasel Coffee. If you have not heard of it--Google it. I
remember doing a news story on this some time ago but I did not know its origins were in Vietnam.
Basically weasels are plentiful in the mountain regions. They climb high into the bushes and eat
coffee beans.
Once they dispose of it (without getting too graphic) the remnants are collected, cleaned and
the beans are roasted and voila-- you have a very rich coffee. It is very expensive because it is
so rare but I found it at market and bought some. You will see a picture of me with the woman
selling it who delighted in my excitement when I got to have my reporter moment up close and
personal with this rare coffee extravaganza.
One of the cool highlights of the day was actually a missed opportunity. The man who
photographed the famous picture of the little girl running after a napalm attack in South Vietnam,
Nic Ut, was at the park I was in today. I saw him, but I had no idea that he was the famous
photographer who captured that iconic image of the Vietnam War. Only later did I learn that it was
him. I did not get to meet Nic Ut but the man teaching me photography on this trip -Karl Grobl-
did.
So, I captured my picture with Karl to remember this near brush with greatness. You can see by
Karl's smile that it was a cool moment even for a very experienced photographer like him.
Tomorrow we move further north in the mountain area.
Monday, March 8, 2010:
How is it possible that my photo exploration to Vietnam would coincide with National Women's
Day? This is a huge holiday here where the men buy flowers for the women and cook for them. Since I
am here to immerse myself in the culture --of course I had to indulge in 'Women's Day.'
While the women are celebrated today -it was a great chance to see how vital women are to the
economy and continuing the rich culture here. I started today in an area around Hoi An. One of the
most impressive moments I've experienced so far was found down a narrow dirt path in the middle a
rice field.
The overcast skies invited the camera to see an 80 year old woman named Bee bent over pulling
weeds from the rice crops. She stands this way all day, everyday and probably for most of her life.
The camera clicked away at her frail hands tending to the rice plants. She was lovely and
gracious and patted her stomach to indicate she was hungry and ready for lunch. As Bee stepped out
of the marshy ground, her bare feet were bloody and her hands were worn.
She never said a word but walked over to a creek to wash up as if we weren't even there. Bee is
a testament to the hard physical labor that is often done by the women in this region. Conegal hats
off to them!
I also find that the Vietnamese women are fiercely independent. Women do most of the selling
in the marketplaces and on the sidewalks. I stumbled on a very old woman selling whistles. It
seemed a little out of place to see her puffing away on a hand made cigar, but she was owning the
moment with confidence.
I have a photo of her in my pictures. It's a definite sight to see.
You know, beauty rituals for women are sacred. I also discovered a little something about
this today when a woman at the front desk of the hotel wanted my lipstick. When I said I only had
one with me she looked heartbroken. When she found out that it cost $13 U.S. dollars she looked
crushed.
Thirteen dollars is a lot of money here. That initiated what I think should be a yearly mission
called 'operation lipstick'. We set out to buy lipstick for all of the female receptionist staff at
the hotel. Problem is-- try finding lipstick in Vietnam-- it is nearly impossible!
After 5 hours and a very odd request to the taxi driver we found it. It was like a scavenger
hunt...stopping here...stopping there...someone wanted to sell me face scrub...most everyone else
offered blank stares...but finally we found it.
The women LOVED it! They were so excited and it was such a joy to brighten their day with such a
simple gesture. Every woman wants to feel pretty and they could not wait to wear their lip color.
Since it is National Women's Day I had to indulge a little too. Mostly, I reminded merchants
about it to get the Women's Day discount on everything from chopsticks to a couple of tailor-made
dresses. It was fantastic! My taxi driver (Mr. Cao Quy Hoi) stopped by a roadside vendor to by my
mom and I flowers in our honor.
And, I decided to cap off a perfect day with lobster sitting seaside.
While I gratuitously joined in Women's Day in Vietnam it really is a special day for this
country.
While I do not know the history behind it I do know they take it very seriously. I can see why
they should. The women here are strong, hard workers and gentle ladies.
Tomorrow I head off to the Northern-most region of Vietnam in Hanoi.
Sunday, March 7, 2010:
I think culture shock is a good thing. It changes up life. It makes you appreciate what you might otherwise take for granted. And, it can be a breath of fresh air. I was prepared for a little bit of culture shock coming to Vietnam --but I wasn't ready for it quite so literally as I found it today.
First, it is important to note that the knob on the left side of the toilet is not -- I repeat, IS NOT-- the flushing handle. Now that I have migrated North to Hoi An in central Vietnam things are a little different.
Apparently if you want a projectile flood of water that will nearly blast you across the
bathroom--go for the knob on the left. The other knob--on the right --that's the flusher.
My culture shock lesson continued when I decided that I would indulge in a Vietnamese massage
for $45 an hour after my wonderful dinner. Myself and another photographer in my group, a man, both
thought this sounded decadent and boy the price was right! Unfortunately
I didn't realize that if you make the appointment in the lobby at the same time as someone else
they assume you are together and life suddenly becomes a Seinfeld episode.
The spa is one room. The sweet Vietnamese masseuse let me behind a curtain and standing there
half dressed is the man from my group. We both stood there in horror and embarrassment. The lady
led me to one of 4 massage beds and told me to strip down.
You have to realize that the only thing separating me and this man I barely know was a transparent lace sheath and a shred of my dignity. When we both tried to tell them we were not married-- they thought that meant that we were sharing a room and said that was ok.
They completely did not understand that we were not together at all. I can't say that crouching
down in a corner to change with a lady holding a wash cloth up to cover me was totally comfortable
but it worked. Yes, I got the massage despite laughing through it and mortified at the whole
experience.
On a completely different note today was a travel day to Hoi An where I got to step foot on
the famous China Beach where American GI's spent time getting a little R&R during war time. It
was very pretty. In Hoi An there are huge mountains. Lifeguards float in the surf in round boats
that look like giant baskets.
The people swim in clothing to keep covered from the sun but there were many young people and
families cooling off near the beach into the early evening.
While I was there taking in such a neat site, a gynormous jellyfish washed up by my feet. I
have a photo of this. The locals actually played with it and pulled out the many starfish that were
inside. I was intrigued by a little Vietnamese boy who ran up to touch it and ran away. I snapped
shots as I shared in his wonder about this huge creature.
The photos I am sending are just a sampling of some snapshots and some photo work that I am
doing here in Vietnam.
The man who is helping me see the world in a new way through the lens of my camera is Karl Grobl. Karl is a Humanitarian Photojournalist and has spent years trekking the continents into worlds most can only imagine. While I love telling the stories of people and humanity --Karl captures these kinds of stories through photography. Karl has frozen moments during some of the world's most terrible tragedies and captured the purest sense of the cultures he visits.
By doing this, he has inspired hope to people in dire need of food or medicine through the
organizations that are able to help them. You can see some of Karl's phenomenal work at
karlgrobl.com. I hope to impart some of Karl's knowledge and see this world and the beautiful
stories that exist in a way I never thought possible.
Friday, March 5, 2010:
Near the steps of the Khmer Pagoda in Can Tho in southern Vietnam you check more than your shoes at the door. Today, I stood barefoot among the decorated relics of Buddhism built here by the Cambodians in the early 20th century. A quiet monk watched me from around a corner as I walked before a giant Buddha statue, smelled the incense that filled the small room and looked at the gentle flicker of candles that seemed to mimic the breeze flowing through a small opening in a window.
The monk's name was Nit. In his late 20's, Nit is going on 4 years studying at the pagoda and
tells me he plans to go to Myanmar to teach when he is finished.
Nit's gentle voice was soothing. His demeanor, peaceful. His laughter, bright. Nit spoke
enough broken English to hold a conversation but another young monk that came into the room just
observed. They found my questions funny as I tried to learn more about them.
I asked many questions (call it a hazard of the profession) because I was fascinated by them. You will see in my pictures that we are standing somewhat apart. I told Nit that in America it is ok to stand close and put your arm around someone in a picture. Well, only understanding about every third word he looked perplexed as to why I wanted to put my arm around him.
Once we both realized there was a misunderstanding separated by a serious language barrier the
stillness in the Pagoda was dodging the sounds of laughter that bounced from wall to wall. It was
quite loud which made it even funnier. As I said goodbye and slipped on my shoes it was like
lifting a cloak to again expose the busy world which exists outside the iron gates of this serene
place.
The bustle of life Can Tho lived up to its reputation in the floating market I visited by
boat this morning. Local merchants exchange bountiful crops of lettuce, pineapple, kava, onions,
bananas and other kinds of produce by boat. It is beautiful and busy. They work hard as daylight
starts to stir on the water.
Men, women, children and elders all exchanging goods and money. There were some really
spectacular photographic opportunities at this floating market that showcased a little slice of
everyday life here.
I also got to see men and women doing daily chores in their homes along the riverbanks. They
were washing clothes, bathing and even brushing their teeth in the Mekong River. I have a great
shot of a boy who just dipped his toothbrush in dingy Mekong River and scrubbed away as we floated
by him.
I also had a chance to visit a woman busy in the heat making rice paper that is commonly used
for things like spring rolls. In a very tiny open air brick workshop she stood above the steam and
gently created a crepe paper thin piece of rice paper --one by one.
Just outside her door and down a path I stumbled on a tree bearing the fruit of my new
favorite treat -- the Jack fruit! I have a picture that shows a small one on a tree and the inside
of another. It is a very odd looking fruit and a very smelly one too but it is the most delicious
piece of fruit I have ever eaten.
I am trying to figure out how to make it into a drink and stir it up with a fancy name. I will
be checking the local Asian markets when I return home to find the Jack fruit. Yum-Yum!!!
As the sun started to set on the day I strolled down to the local market where there is
always so much action. I thought people-watching at the fair or the Bureau of Motor Vehicles was
great but those places have NOTHING on the Can Tho market.
Too many "I can't believe I just saw that" moments to share but I walk away feeling like I
should have paid for the entertainment. In fact, if I stood in one spot long enough there
were plenty of little kids that would have tried to get me to pay!
Tomorrow I travel north to Denang and Hoi An in South Central Vietnam.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
I have learned something amazing about the human spirit today and it took me spending time here in South Vietnam to do it. It is true that we are all wired to overcome whatever is before us...be it a natural disaster, a personal tragedy or a life hurdle. But, have you ever thought about how many times in a day the will to overcome --the power of the human spirit as I like to call it-- is challenged?
Today I witnessed many small life victories and only came to really appreciate their value as I
saw them through the eyes of the gracious Vietnamese people.
In my photos you will see a Vietnamese man in Ho Chi Minh City meticulously tending to an
ancient bonsai tree. There were dozens in this small park. Some of these bonsai date back four
decades and are worth up to $25,000!
The pride of this worker was evident by the time and care he put into each small snip of his
scissors. It was as though he was sharing in the progress for his city and his people as he crafted
this piece of ancient history to stand for another dozen decades.
I hopped aboard a boat and traveled about 5 hours along the Mekong Delta to Can Tho bearing
witness to lives without the internet, technology and without what we in the Western world would
consider acceptable living conditions.
Life goes on though. And in this very primitive area boats carrying sugar cane, durable goods, fruit and concrete go on their way knowing no different. Mothers with children sit on the edges of shacks on the riverbanks as their laundry dries in the soggy air and their few possessions are scattered among the place they call home. I see children walking barefoot in the mud making possessions out of trash.
I see men walking in murky chest-high water checking fishing nets so they can make a living for their family. I see small Vietnamese women standing proud navigating boats alone in choppy water to get to their destinations.
Despite the quiet sadness I feel for them for not having the many things we take for
granted--they smile, they wave, and they really make the very best out of what they have.
One of my photos shows a transport vessel with two giant eyes painted on it. The Mekong used
to be overrun with many fish and crocodiles. The locals use this symbol on transport boats to keep
the fish away for their safe passage. The fishing boats however and not painted so they can attract
the fruits of their labor.
Local superstition must work because when we stopped at a place called Unicorn Island we had a
feast of local fish and huge shrimp.
Here's where this 'everyday human spirit' thing comes in. I have had an interesting time with
the local food. Translation--I usually don't recognize what is on my plate and my imagination goes
wild trying to figure out what it is since it doesn't match anything in my sphere of
familiarity.
Today we had a giant fish prepared beautifully and yes it was looking at me. I tackled my backward conception that fish on the dinner plate must only look one way and I dug in there. I also had a large shrimp show up on the table that looked delicious but it also looked like it was scooped out of the ocean 5 minutes ago.
You can see by my pictures I was having fun trying to figure out what to do with it. Eventually when I overcame the mental and cultural barriers guess what? I had the most delicious and wonderful lunch of fresh seafood and I got to immerse myself in this cultural feast. It is the everyday small victories that lend themselves to enlightenment!!
Now, that being said I am still not over the mystery meat chunks and bones that were in
yesterday's lunch but I am making progress.
Finally, in Can Tho I got to really see the locals in action. This is where the human spirit
prevails. I marvel at what they are all doing individually to make a living and what they are doing
collectively to make a society. The children use visitors to practice their English and begging
trade.
The two boys in my photos played with me on the sidewalk and literally wrapped themselves around my legs when I tried to leave. They were precious. The very old Vietnamese man...what a gem! His mouth with no teeth and his tiny scraggly beard were only trumped but his sweetness.
The old woman sitting by the wall in my pics was being teased by a young boy because I was taking her picture. You can't help but share her laughter when you see her. My "A-HA" moment was interrupted temporarily today by a very strange dog-type animal that was walking on the street.
You have to see this picture to believe it!!! But like the rest of the celebration of
overcoming-- I got past the dog and re-focused on the people of Can Tho.
Every one of these people is overcoming the hand they were dealt- or the war they lived
through- or the handicap they endure- or the family they were born into-just to make it. I
celebrate small victories today!
Off to a floating market in the morning for sunrise.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Somewhere sitting on that fine line between the Ying and the Yang is Vietnam.
Organized chaos rules here, but the driving force behind the people and their survival is a desirable calm. Bustling marketplaces are structured buy carefully designed product and color. The busy youth are tempered by their elders who are side by side with them.
The wretched smell of raw meat at open air vendor stands is balanced by endless rows of vibrant
color and the smiles of the people who call this their daily life. I see patterns of this
everywhere.
The highlight of the day was a visit to the Chinatown marketplace near Saigon. I could stand
completely still for hours and never see the same thing twice.
It is madness couched in some kind of Zen that seems to hold it all together like its just
supposed to happen this way. In my photos you will see what I mean. A favorite of the marketplace
was the old women. One was chopping fish with an ax. One was scooping out fish guts. One was
collecting trash. Some of them were just sitting at the vendor stands doing nothing.
I also enjoyed a moment of feeling what it was like to look very different in this part of
the world. I had a small collection of friends as we stood and posed for pictures in front of a
dumpster for a really cool moment. A moment later they went on with their world and I went on with
mine.
I had an old woman rub my arm and smile at me for a very long time. I also had an older woman come by and swat me lightly on the back side as she walked away giggling.
I think she wanted to see what I would do. When I saw her giggling - I did too because I
really couldn't believe she did that then ducked in a vendor stand to see my reaction. She came
back to me smiling and stood with me for a picture. We don't share a language - but we shared a
smile and moment.
I visited a Chinese temple where people coame to light incsence and pray. These temples are
not only used as religious sites but also communal centers as evidenced by the various kinds of
people who were there.
Just outside that temple was a lovely old man selling wares that he makes. There's lots of this
kind of thing along the streets but I took a special liking to him. I think it was his contageous
smile with just sparse teeth - his weathered skin and is gentle temperment. I shared a neat moment
with him too on the steps of a doorway where I am sure he spends most of his days.
Also in South Vietnam the government has set up a program to enable the handicapped to be
productive members of society. They can make a living and have some independence. Many of these men
and women are said to be victims from the war-- deformities many received from the effects of Agent
Orange.
This is an outlet for people to make beautiful wares using inlaid egg shells and mother of
pearl. It is very neat and you can see the pride on their faces when visitors come to buy what they
have spent weeks and months making.
As I soak up the many balances of life here that present themselves in so many ways I have to
mention the resourcefullness of the Vietnamese. In my photos you will see a little boy making a-go
of it as a local shoe shiner.
He ran up to my photo guide (Karl Grobl, also an American) and wanted to shine his shoes. Karl
was in flip-flops! That didn't stop the little boy from dumping out his bag of tools complete with
a scrub brush and tooth brush and go to work-- yes, on the flip flops. While I did not share this
moment interacting with this little boy-- I got to treasure a very sweet moment of humanity.
Tomorrow I hop aboard a boat and head down the Mekong Delta.
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Stepping foot into Vietnam is literally stepping into a society in transition. I am in Ho Chi Minh city where many areas are very metropolitan and modern but intertwined with remnants of a tattered past and centuries of culture.
Motorbikes filled with working people - babies - even entire families fly by on the streets
where street markings and traffic lights are merely a suggestion.
As a journalist I was anxious to see how the Vietnamese documented the war. I got to see that
today. It is clear from the 'Room of Truths' that displays the history of the country before and
after the war that there is still a lot propaganda. The pictures and descriptions of what
happened during the time of war are clearly biased.
There are graphic pictures that scatter the walls of the War Museum of mangled bodies, deformed children and human abnormalities that they attribute to Agent Orange meant to make a point...and they do.
Unfortunately, they do not display the barbaric methods of torture that were used by the Viet Cong. I am trained to observe all sides-- and I find it unfortunate that there is such a deliberate effort to not only 'not' tell the many sides of this war, but to glorify one perspective.
I spent time talking to an Australian man there who served in the war and was taking in his
account. His, clearly, was very different.
In my photos you see me holding a book in front of a U.S. Fighter Jet. While perusing books
in the gift shop a woman who worked there came up to me and shoved this book in my hand. It's
called 'The Sorrow of War.' On the back cover the description explains that its purpose is to
disspell the "American fiction" of the Vietnam War.
This experience was fascinating to me. I am amazed at the extreme efforts that are taken
to get out this one perspective.
I also explored the CuChi tunnels used by the Viet Cong during the war to hide from enemy
forces. There are 120 miles of elaborate underground tunnels with air holes disguised as ant hills
and tiny entrances covered by brush throughout the region. In my pictures you see a very tiny
Vietnamese man jumping into one of those entrances. I describe it as the size of a wash cloth that
drops straight down.
The hole is probably 18 inches wide. My mother is probably the only American EVER to get in there. That's her in the pic. I used the 'Western' entrance to get down into the tunnel which got smaller and smaller and smaller. You can only get through in a crouched position or by crawling.
At almost 90 degrees and very high humidity it is impossible to imagine almost 4000 soldiers
using this in a combat situation. I also got to see some of the disguised boobie traps used by the
Viet Cong during war.
The people in Vietnam are gracious. It is definitely culture shock, but lovely.
Friday, February 26, 2010
Vietnam is a beautiful country with a rich culture and sorted history. During the next several weeks I will explore the vast changes in that country since the Vietnam War, and capture the permanent remnants of its influence through the lens of my camera.
I will begin in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) where I will first step foot in the famous underground network of Cu-Chi Tunnels used by the Viet Cong to hide during combat in the Vietnam War.
I will explore the Mekong Delta by boat and visit the waterfront markets. I will head North to Hoi An and take in the historic China Beach and charming architecture of the city.
Next, I head to the top of the country to the capital of Hanoi where I will capture a traditional water puppet show and document the rich history of the city.
I am really looking forward to spending the night on Cat Ba Island and waking up early to catch the local fisherman as they work. I've seen pictures of some of the unusual catches there, and as a woman who loves to fish I can't wait to see this in person!
I will hop an overnight train to Lao Cai where markets flourish (shopping!). I will wind my way around to Bac Ha where I will have a rare opportunity to photograph 10 different local hill tribes as they bargain for water buffalo, pigs and horses.
All I know of Vietnam is from movies and glimpses of the country during a time of war. I hope the images I now have in my mind of devastation and destruction will be replaced by the beautiful landscape, people and culture that is the country today.
This is a rare chance to interact to the locals and immerse myself into their culture, if only briefly. This will be extra special since I will be sharing this photographic exploration with my mother. I will be sending back pictures and posts. You are welcome to join me on my journey.
